REPORT HELD TO ALASKA TRIP IN JULY 2009, from Los Angeles USA, CANADA AND PASSING THE FINISHED IN MIAMI. TOTAL MILEAGE 15,800 KM, 36 DAYS. FOUR ORIGINAL MEMBERS, WITH TWO BMW R1200GS, BMW F650 ONE AND A 1300 KAWASAKI CONCOURS

Always plan a trip to Alaska starting in Brazil. However, for this we would need at least 90 days available (if we consider the shipment of the bikes in the air return).

As we have just over 30 days of vacation a year, this plan became impossible, would have to be for retirement. Thus, there was another idea.

One of the components of the trip, Richard Cilento, for many years invited me for this trip from Brazil, but I insisted that he could not. At a dinner at his house once, we decided to pick my bike to Los Angeles, find it there, and from there, follow together. Surveys of foreign trade enterprises, which would be responsible for shipping the bike to the U.S., revealed a large hole that made the idea impractical.

Almost giving up the trip, I decided to search for rentals of bikes and then the project again become possible. I found several American companies that rent bikes, but most worked with Harley Davidson motorcycle that would not serve to our plans. And many who had restrictions on the bike on dirt roads were also dismissed. We finally found a company in Los Angeles, the WE RENT MTORCYCLES (www.werentmotorcycles.com) that the very first contact we have inspired much confidence, and make good bikes for our journey. We closed the business. We rented 3 motorcycles, 2 BMW R 1200 GS and 1 Kawasaki Concours. At the time of the project were already 4 riders. Ricardo Cilento stay with your project to travel from Brazil. The cost of rents, I know there are many questions about it, here goes: for 35 days with the bikes, including full technical assistance, oil changes, new tires, fully insured and also the fact that we take bikes in Los Angeles and give back in Miami, across the U.S., each bike cost about $ 5200.00, well below the budgets we received to send our own bikes to the U.S.. It was a financial effort that we felt worth it and then close the deal. The owner of WE RENT MOTORCYCLES, Mr. Jack Raynolds, has always shown confidence and we always attended with great professionalism. If you want to do the same, you can use my name as a reference and will certainly have a great service.

All right, the departure of Ricardo Cilento was scheduled for 12/05/2009. He would go out of Florianópolis and cross all of South America and Central America and meet us in LA on 27/06/2009. In Los Angeles I would be, Ricardo Rauen, my brother's partner travel the Carretera Austral in 2006, Roger Seamus and another friend, Rohit Khemani (the name is different because he is Indian and lives in Brazil). Everyone began preparations for the trip. We conducted some joint meetings to establish goals, what to take, set the path, etc.. They are always very tasty and moments of great anxiety for the arrival date of departure.

The main point of the trip was established as Prudhoe Bay in Deadhorse, on the shores of the Arctic Ocean, far north of Alaska and North America by land. Thus, the trip would be Los Angeles - Prudhoe Bay - Miami. By our calculations give little more than 15,000 km. Great, perfect for anyone who loves to ride a motorcycle for unknown places. The voyage of Richard Cilento would be much longer, of course.

Ricardo Cilento part with his Yamaha XT660 on the appointed day. Everything was just joy for us that we were in Brazil. It was as if the whole project was already underway. On the second day of travel gets an email saying that the Cilento was returning to Brazil. I had just joined in Argentina when he received messages from relatives asking to return because of the crisis of swine flu that used to befall the force in Latin countries. Quite upset and disappointed, Cilento, who has a wife and a child of only 7 years old, had no doubts and returned. Was temporarily out of the project, unfortunately for the rest of the group. For several days the group was reduced to three.

A few days after the Cilento resolved the issue by purchasing a motorcycle in California. Was back to the project. That way everyone would be meeting in the U.S. and would make the main part of the journey together. To get the sights, he paid $ 6,500.00 per a 2007 BMW F650 years, with Baulet headlights, miles, etc.. Surely then this bike will sell for at least $ 5,000.00 and accounting will be very favorable.

Well, given the initial explanation, let the journey. On 27/06/2009 I, Roger and Rohit arrived in Los Angeles. The delivery of the bikes was scheduled for 10:30 am the morning of this day, a beautiful sunny Saturday. At the appointed hour arrives the truck company with the bikes. The landing of the bikes was very marked. All in accordance with the combined, the bikes were in perfect condition, complete for a long journey as we wanted: Baulet side and rear, GPS, new tires, revised, clean. No documents were handed over the bikes, as Mr. Jack Raynolds assured that everything would be computerized within the U.S. and Canada, rendering unnecessary the production of documents of the motorcycles.

On the same day 27 already came out with the bikes from the hotel, which was nearby the international airport of Los Angeles, and we know the local attractions. Beaches of Malibu, Venice Beach, Hollywood, Beverly Hills, etc.. The city was shaken for Mickael Jackson had died a few days earlier. Many tributes in various parts of the city. In short, everything a tourist wants to know perfect LA visited. Despite being a huge city, traveling through the streets was very smooth, they are mostly wide roads and a large gap with regard to Brazil: the citizen respect traffic laws. Moreover, respect for law is so great that sometimes is too boring.

Los Angeles is very beautiful, nice, etc., but we were eager to put the bikes on the road and finally get to actually drive to the Alaska. We went to bed early that day, after all the mess get the hotel room, where all our things were scattered everywhere. We put everything within Baulet and went to sleep with the expectation of the next day for the first leg to San Francisco, about 700 km to the north, stop by La Honda where we would find the Cilento and then be with the full team.

From now on we will report every day.

28/06/2009: Los Angeles to Caramel - California - 550 km

Wake up early and after breakfast, we start with the bikes toward PCH 1, the highway that is skirting the Pacific Ocean. The bike of Roger, one of GS, presents a problem that will be repeated during the trip in BMW: loss of screws. This time it was the screw that holds the support for the Baulet back. However, in the United States you will find everything you need in large hardware stores and sundries. To restore the lost bolt went to a Home Depot store, a giant chain stores.

We continued on and even outside of Los Angeles I made a mistake which serves as a lesson for any bike traveling, never leave anything loose upon Baulet or rear seat of the bike. At a stop in Camarillo for photos on top of a mountain, I left my fanny pack on top of Baulet back and did not realize output. Result: Three miles later I lack. Then the situation was complicated because we were on a 4-lane highway, high speed, with no space for parades and had just come down the mountain. In my fanny pack was the passport and much of the money for the trip, besides my wallet with credit cards, etc.. I began to think that the journey would end right there on the first day, shot just over 50 km no alternative, I stopped the bike on the shoulder and started sprinting up the mountain. Cars passed me at full speed. The heat was unbearable, with the clothing and sun deck overhead. I climbed the three kilometers from the heart the mouth and thoughts about the stupidity that he had committed. She prayed that the pouch was still lying on the floor, where we had stopped. As I climbed I was checking the road for the pouch could be there, hit by cars. I checked the top of the mountain I think about 30 minutes later, completely exhausted. The fanny pack was there. Started to fall, more calmly but with your heart racing. I got the bike and went in search of partners who did not know what was going on because they had gone ahead. 5 kilometers after the meeting and stop the bike to rest and tell what happened. I was so exhausted, sweaty, it was so hot and still with all the nervousness of the situation, my body asked for help and threw up all the breakfast at the roadside. Sorry to report this situation but the goal is to convey the message with the utmost care with our belongings, make a thorough check before leaving.

The roads are flat, asphalt perfect and at least two tracks, bordering the Pacific with beautiful scenery. Thousands of motorcycles pass by us, I can say that 95% were Harley Davidson. Everyone say hello, always. The camaraderie of the rider is present there as well. Now I comment that the United States is the place of Harley Davidson. Are many. All have a HD failure in the garage, since the employee simplest to the top executive. It's really impressive. For fans of this bike, the place is the United States. In dealerships mark the amount of accessories is frightening. We stopped for lunch at the pier in Santa Barbara, famous in movies and also be the city of Michael Jackson's Neverland. We ate a giant crab (crab), a typical dish of the place. The animal should have three feet if stretched their legs.

Continue along the PCH 1, which in some places is simple and on track with a cliff of the sea. The speed limit for the site varies from 80 to 110 km / h and everyone respects. The laws are followed strictly. Much fog hindered the appreciation of the panorama of the ocean and humidity fogging helmet. He began to cool and that would be the largest cold the whole trip, about 10C. In this stretch of PCH 1 have had contact with the treatment of the police. The Rohit, with little driving experience, on a bend pervades the opposite lane and at the time was a police car. He was right. The police have a wooden horse on the shoulder and came to stop us. Realizing that we were strangers, just caught our attention and gave safety advice. This was the treatment of police officers throughout the trip: courteous, kind and always with the goal of education. We arrived in Caramel at about 21:00 pm and we stayed at the Normandy Inn and the main street, for $ 100.00 in double room. We are in high tourist season in the U.S. and this was one of the more expensive hotels throughout the trip, but we had no option because there was no camping in the city and was completely dark. In this city also had the first contact with a fact that should be taken into consideration when traveling here and in Canada: the restaurants close early. It was 22:00 pm when we left the hotel for dinner and the kitchens of all restaurants in town were already closed. Only served drinks. The dinner ended up being a dozen beers. This situation would be repeated several times during the trip.

29/06/2009 - Caramel to Bodega Bay - 352 km

On this day we find Ricardo Cilento in La Honda, a town located approximately 80 Km from San Francisco. Found the fourth component of the travel seat and headed for San Francisco, where we stopped for some hours to learn a little of the large and beautiful American city. Most popular places such as Lombard Street and Golden Gate were visited, while making the ride the tram through the city center, and drops in on its steep slopes.

We left San Francisco by the Golden Gate Bridge and headed north on U.S. 101 and then the PCH 1 still bordering the Pacific Ocean. Gigantic rocks punctuate the sea, giving an amazing view. After about 200 km run through and look for a place to stay. Ali at Doran Beach - Bodega Bay, we decided to make our first campsite, for which we paid $ 22.00 to put four tents. We ate fish and chips (fried fish and chips) at a tavern nearby, bought beer and remain in the dark of night, around the tents in a very nice chat. The bikes parked beside the tents, the sea front.

On the issue of a valley camping information: the United States and Canada is very common camping. But most of the spaces is reserved for the RV (recreational vehicles) that are motorhomes and motor homes giants. Americans and Canadians really like it and there are thousands of them circling. It's amazing how many there are countless places reserved only for this type of tourism. Where there is room for RV, there is room for a stall.

30/06/2009 - Bodega Bay to Klamath - 496 Km

We woke up early and after dismantling the tents and packed up all the stuff on the bike, followed by U.S. 101, passing through Point Arena and Fort Bragg and the Redwwok National Park where the road is very twisty in the middle of huge redwoods and other trees trunks a very large diameter. We went to the left of U.S. 101 to see the Chandelier Tree, or also known as Drive Through Tree, which is a tree of 2400 years, with more than 100 feet tall and whose trunk of 6 feet in diameter, was drilled and can move from the car into the tree. Right there in the shade of the tree a hot dog lunch. We follow up on the edge of Klamath Pacific where we stayed at the Motel Trees to U.S. $ 110.00 in a room for 4 people. Motel in the United States and Canada are the best hosting option because they are cheap and the bikes are parked at the door of the rooms, greatly facilitating the handling of luggage. Dinner at own motel and bed.

01/07/2009 - Klamath Raymond / Oregon - 693 km

On the road, by U.S. 101, northbound, lunch at Crescent City and soon after we entered the state of Oregon. The road always bordering the Pacific and with those big rocks on the beach. Harley Davidsons everywhere. Chart when a chat with the riders, always friendly and travel tips. We went through Astoria, crossed the huge bridge that divides the city and almost out of gas, we came to Raymond, where we stayed at the Golden Lion Inn at $ 80.00 in a double room, one of the few motels in the city that is very small. In front of the motel has the Top Notch Tavern, a tavern a lot of fun with pool table. The owner, 80 years of age, challenged customers in pool matches. Because it is a small town, our presence has become attraction. Everyone in the tavern want to talk, ask about the trip and about Brazil.

Here I make a comment. Traveling in South America, people are curious to know where we are mainly, the power and value of the bike. In the United States and Canada are the questions about where is Brazil and what our professional activity. Hence the crop comes to economic issues and social issues. There's no question about the motorcycle, although the BMW always draw attention because there are really few circulating on the U.S. mainland and Canada. The deal here is Harley Davidson.

02/07/2009 - Raymond Hope / Canada - 472 km

Raymond left early and we set off towards the border with Canada. We went through Seattle, great American city, modern, beautiful buildings, bridges, stadiums and roads to 6 lanes that surround it. On the outskirts of major U.S. cities is very good to pick up the map, the cards or the GPS, it is a jumble of signals that it is very easy to miss one of the entrances or exits the highway. Our goal was to cross the border with Canada in Abbotsford. We customs procedures with ease and entered them in Canada stopping at a large service center and food, where we had lunch and we exchanged U.S. dollars for Canadian dollars. The U.S. dollar is not accepted in Canada, anywhere we researched. We drove the beautiful Canadian roads to a very nice town called Hope, where we place a great place for camping, the camping Testel. At the edge of a great river, surrounded by mountains covered with pine trees. We camped under trees. Again the pleasant surroundings of the camping: tent set up, bike in the door, dinner and beer on the table placed under the trees. Much talk and laughter in the class of travelers. Have all set up their tents with ease, who wants to bathe you, who do not want to go for food and drink. Night fell but I began to feel the signs that we were making great strides toward the north, it failed to be total darkness.

03/07/2009 - Hope Williams Lake - 392 Km

We are in the state of British Columbia. The highway Transcanada, HWY 1, leads by low mountains and always following the Fraser River to Cache Creek where we had lunch. On the way to Williams Lake stopped in Clinton. It was very hot and we had to cool off in a tavern (Jake's Pub) playing pool in mid-afternoon Friday. In Williams Lake we stayed at the Motel stampede to Can $ 75.00 in a double room. It is run by a family of Chinese very funny. Beside the motel was the best tavern in town, then there was our dinner and our beer of the day. We found a French Canadian who was traveling with his Kawasaki KLR 600 and it took several travel tips.

04/07/2009 - Williams Lake to New Hazelton - 698 Km

From Williams Lake we started north along Route 97 in Prince George and we took the left on 16. We passed several small and charming towns, all with beautiful carved wooden plates in their doorways, welcoming travelers. Is the case of Vanderhoof, Burns Lake and Houston. Great road. In Smithers stopped to enjoy the Glacier Gulch and went to New Hazelton, where we stayed at the Buckley Valley Motel Can $ 79.00 in a double room.

05/07/2009 - New Hazelton Watson Lake - 799 Km

At the crossroads of highway 16 with the Cassiar Highway we first saw the name written in an Alaska plate. The Cassiar Highway is little used by travelers and this was the reason we chose this path. Passing by numerous lakes and dense forest. Many stops for photography. Canadian roads are great but there are many places where there is maintenance work. Thus, there are several stretches of land. As the bike with Rohit was inappropriate and also had no driving experience in this type of terrain, I was ahead of everyone to test the soil and in case of any danger more I came back and advised the staff. But it was no big deal and the course was great fun, despite the great distance and the few points of rest. The end of the Cassiar Highway takes place in the Alaska Highway, the legendary highway that takes us to Alaska. At the end of the Cassiar Highway is also the border with the Yukon Territory. At the intersection ran about 25 km east to be staying at Watson Lake. Alaska highway is now more difficult to find accommodation. In Watson Lake camp at Watson Lake Campground for Can $ 6.00, beneath trees and mosquitoes that are huge and appear in their thousands. Moreover, since the Cassiar Highway is already necessary to use repellents. It's amazing the number and size of the mosquitoes in this region and it will accompany us throughout Alaska. We arrived in Watson Lake at about 20:00 pm and, as already mentioned in this report, the restaurants were all closed as well as convenience stores and small markets. We ate a hamburger made by a Scotsman in the only place still open and we went to the campsite. Here there is a bit darker. Begin today without seeing the darkness of night. Clarity reigns for 24 hours. I could already read my books, in the tent at 2 am, no need to drive the backlight of the tent. Very different experience for us Brazilians.

06/07/2009 - Watson Lake to Whitehorse - 452 km

Whitehorse is the capital of the Yukon Territory. The route is all done by the Alaska Highway. Several passages in the works but always with great signage and support from the workers of the road. Many motorcyclists. Several models and adaptation of Harley Davidson. It is quite common for Harleys with trailer. We also found several Honda Gold Wing with a sidecar, or a cart attached to the side of the bike where a third component can go hosted. I personally find it very strange, maybe you should go by car, then. Whitehorse is a small town but is the main region. You are all there. It was very hot and the demand for housing has become overwhelming. We found several options, but very expensive, about Can $ 100.00 in double room. In the visitor center of the city received a tip from a place for backpackers, ie, where the backpackers stay. Why Can $ 52.00 in two, we were in Beez Knees Backpackers, near the Yukon River. The site was very different. One of the "bed" was a van parked in the yard, where they could get 2 people. My room was a wooden hut with a bunk bed which I shared with Ricardo Cilento. In hosting were people from all over the world and of all ages and cultures. Roger and Rohit decided to have a barbecue, or a barbecue for all staff. It was a large gathering. The atmosphere was so friendly and nice that the Cilento gave us with a concert of opera, sung in perfect Italian. German, British, Australians, Israelis, Canadians, all exchanging ideas, eating and drinking until late at night (night is not enough, because we went to bed at 2 am with total clarity).

07/07/2009 - Whitehorse - Alaska border - 480 km

Bought food at a store in Whitehorse and we travel the Alaska Highway. On the first rest stop and made a picnic for breakfast. Although the mean age being 40 years, we felt as children on this trip: camping, picnics, meeting with young people around the world every day on our bikes, really great time being experienced by us.

Traveling the Alaska Highway, we stopped for fuel and soon after was to Haines Junction, a bifurcation of the Alaska Highway. Arranged to take pictures on the card indicative of Alaska in Haines Junction. I was the first to arrive so I put myself in position to take pictures of others. The first was the Cilento. He took the picture without turning off the bike and went ahead. Because of this ended up not following the Alaska Highway (turning left), and was straight. In fact no one noticed that he had taken the wrong direction, then continue to take pictures with great ease. We resumed our journey and about 100 km below began to miss the Cilento. The theories of what might have happened were placed and the conclusion was one: he was toward Haines. We imagine that he would soon realize the mistake and come after us. Finally, at the end of the day he was to meet only in Alaska. Running over 360 km to more than necessary, a great pity, but here's the advice to always pay close attention to important road junctions.

I, Roger and Rohit, after photos in Haines Junction, follow the Alaska Highway towards the border with Alaska. We were leaving messages for the Cilento in all gas stations where we stopped and the restaurant in Destruction Bay. We were waiting for him over an hour in Destruction Bay, but nothing.

The Canada / United States of America was very quiet. Questions that would become standard: what is your destination in the U.S., how many days remain in the country, if we are carrying weapons or drugs or goods with commercial value. Where procedures generally very fast and very kindly by the police.

Soon after the border we stopped for pictures on the card "Welcome to Alaska". It was an important stage of the journey being fulfilled. About 20 km later we stopped at the camping Boarder City Lounge, a gas station with local parking of RV where you can also pitch tents for $ 12.00, complete with hot shower but without protection against the bears, which meant that Roger did not sleep a wink during the night. The issue of bears in this region really is very serious. Numerous notices everywhere warning travelers to take care of the animals, and the most dangerous is the bear. We had already spotted several bears on the roads. Once we stopped to take pictures, but with the bike's engine on, ready to sail quickly in case of attack. Other animals that can be seen easily there are elk, buffalo, deer and especially squirrels crossing the road at all times.

Now with our tents assembled and bathed, comes the Cilento, exhausted. We had left our bikes on the road to signal our presence.

This camping find Tom, an American 72-year-old ex-fighter pilot as well as commercial flights. Traveling alone with his Harley Special to American military veterans. A great conversation and lots of information exchanged.

08/07/2009 - Frontier of Alaska to Fairbanks - 471 km

We went to Fairbanks, the main town in the interior of Alaska and strategic point of accommodation for our most important phrase in the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay Long lines, average speed of 130 km / h by the Alaska Highway. In Delta Junction is the board signaling the end of the Alaska Highway. The arrival in Fairbanks surprised me, for I thought a small town, provincial, but it is a large city with wide avenues, strong trade, etc..

Seek early in the BMW dealership in the city. With some difficulty to locate and we ended up staying in a motel just across the Golden North Hotel, for $ 97.00 for two people.

In the service of renting of the bikes was included changing oil and tires. As we move from Los Angeles as new tires, I thought it would be necessary to change them here, after we had shot just over 5800 kms, but surprisingly the back showed up bald, unable to face the almost 1600 km of land in front . So, just changing the tires there and opted for an off-road model, the Continental TKC80, which is not available in Brazil. The bikes were a review, oil change and washing, all included in the service provided by the company that rented the bikes.

At the dealership, which is actually the HD, but are authorized service on BMWs as well, officials and some travelers who were there we only got bad news about the path of the Dalton Highway, which is a dirt road that would lead us to Prudhoe Bay . They called the road a "destroyer of bikes and they were tired of meeting accidents traveling there. I had been through this before. People give all sorts of bad news about a path. I tried not to listen and to consult the group, it was decided that the plans would be maintained as the original.

On this day we had a low in the group. The Rohit for problems to solve in Brazil with his work, he would pick his bike back to Los Angeles and follow flight to Miami and then to Brazil. All right, a shame because his company was very important, but we had to do, let's move on, I, Cilento and Roger.

09/07/2009 - Fairbanks - 0 Km

We took the day to rest while the bikes were repaired in the workshop. Circulate through the center of Fairbanks, buy souvenirs.

By late afternoon the bikes were ready. We prepared a barbecue in the door of the hotel room, complete with mignon and salmon. Motorcyclists British and Americans who were staying at the same hotel joined us and was a large gathering.

10/07/2009 - Fairbanks to Coldfoot - 418 Km

The dismissal of Rohit was fast in the morning. His plane left for Miami and we started preparing our bikes for the main purpose of the trip: to reach the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay / Deadhorse.

We left the hotel Baulet side. We left only with the camping equipment and some clothes in Baulet back. It was not necessary to carry all the weight in this stretch. The first kilometers are great asphalt, until shortly after Livengood. There starts the Dalton Highway. Photos on the board. I left a patch of Rauen Motorcycle Trip pasted on it. Latest advice on the dirt road were passed. The important thing is to reach the destination, no matter be quick. Our plan was to make the trip to the Arctic Ocean in two stages, with a stop in Coldfoot. It gets the dirt road and the words that we found was fine, dry and firm. We ran with ease, despite the strong dust that rose from the huge truck coming in the opposite direction. The movement of trucks on the Dalton Highway is intense and they have a preference. Thus, any truck driver relieves the speed of motorcycles because in the opposite direction. On the way to Coldfoot, we passed the bridge over the Yukon River, the largest in the region. We stopped for lunch in the Yukon River Camp and there cater bikes. Shortly after we stopped at the Hot Spot, a place to feed too crazy, with an unusual decoration. Many more photos and an adhesive Rauen Motorcycle Trip left in place. Speaking of decoration, since we entered the Yukon Territory is very common to see moose antlers in front of houses, restaurants and bars as well as skins of various animals, including bears and wolves. When we were leaving the Hot Spot, the owner came to us and said, "Take care. Do not let me be the last face you see. " In other words, "take care, do not let me be the ultra modern person you are" making direct reference to the danger of running on these roads, the bike. I thought it was more of an exaggeration of who does not understand that travel safely with appropriate equipment and know that we have to be careful. Thanks the warning, but go ahead.

After the Hot Spot trip following the dirt road and loose sand, dusty place. Our next attraction was the imaginary line of the Arctic Circle. We stopped for several pictures. On site there is a lot of information about the polar circle, sun position, etc.. Most travelers coming to this region return here. We went ahead. We arrived in Coldfoot around 19:00 pm. Coldfoot is no more than four petrol stations, a bar / restaurant, some representation of the U.S. Army and a few "hotels". The hotels are very rustic, but the daily charge of $ 199.00 per person. Outside the city there is a recently installed visitor center, where all information is provided to travelers. It is an installation that jars the rest of the city, it is a lot of modernity to be there in the middle of nowhere. In Coldfoot is the last option for fuel supply. There is a sign warning travelers that the next chance to find gasoline is only in Prudhoe Bay, 384 km ahead. On arrival has filled the tanks and provide gasoline reserve. Each one took about 10 liters more.

As the hotels were priced beyond our budget, we asked the restaurant that option would have. Who we met with said, "can camp wherever they want, anywhere, without any cost." Okay, fine, that's what we do. I was supposed to move in the place looking for a good place to camp. I drove around the village and ended up choosing to stay right next to the restaurant, in a place full of stones, but at least it was sheltered from the winds. We were just getting set up tents when a native of the city comes to us with your ATV (sort of motorcycle with four wheels, very common there) and says, "why not camp in the backyard of my house by the river, is a wonderful place, much better than that here. " We had tents set up and then we were not going to change now. But the other night was planned in this city on our way back, then Roger followed the man to his house to know the place and leave "reserved" for two days later. Roger came back from there amazed at the place and the house of the guy. It was an oil worker and hunter. His house was a wooden hut, with the characteristic of elk horn at the door. Inside, many weapons and hunting trophies, skins, bear, wolf, etc.. He was determined, in turn, we would be camped out there, and what is best for free.

11/07/2009 - Coldtoof to Prudhoe Bay - 384 km

The next morning we left for the stretch known as the most difficult of the trip. From Coldfoot to Prudhoe Bay would be 384 km of dirt roads, without any support structure for the course. The first 180 km were uneventful, without any problem. In a stop to drink water, we found a couple that was traveling in RV warned us that: "The road is horrible to Prudhoe Bay, take care. As their bikes are still clean? ". He continued saying that the road ahead was very wet, with a gray mud, deep, something really bad. It was true, because his R.V. was completely filled with mud in thick layers. Went ahead and arrived at Atigun Pass, the highest mountain in the region. There the thing has begun to receive more care. The road began to show his face more complicated. Wet, muddy and slippery. We have been following and it got worse. The road was completely impassable. There were holes, the problem was the humidity. Two things have caused the track to stay that way: the rain the night before and, primarily, a chemical that trucks play the track so that it becomes wet on purpose to avoid the dust, which improves the circulation of trucks, which, as have already reported, are preferred. Soon after the chemical spread on the track, the tractor is doing the work of excavation. It gets really difficult for the bikes. We run with a speed of 20 to 30 km / h. The mud began to permeate throughout the bike. The rear wheel could not be seen as well as the board and the flag of Brazil which I had stuck in Baulet back. Trucks and pick-ups came behind us putting pressure on our pace. We left the track to pass. Were almost 200 km of wetlands. The dark sky, but not raining. And let's move on. In Happy Valley, very appropriate name, we get 20 km of asphalt and that was it. We returned to the mud and the torture. But our destination was close, right there, we would not give up. With great care and patience come to Prudhoe Bay, exhausted, unable to anything, just looking for rest. The bikes were in poor condition, completely covered by mud gray. The problem with this mud is that it can block local cooling of the engine and just blow it. It happened with a BMW GS for an English found in Prudhoe Bay The guy had to send the bike trucked to Fairbanks. Our bikes, although crowded, were OK

In Prudhoe Bay is not possible to camp. The site is a labor camp oil and mud is everywhere, and the constant wind. Who goes on he is driven to stay in a hotel (I think they are only 2) whose daily rate is $ 150.00 for a room 6m with shared bathroom. All food is provided by the facility, included in the daily rate. In fact we are in a lodging for the workers of the site. How about places, sometimes they are made available to tourists. Thus, we hosted on the Prudhoe Bay Hotel. Sleep was everything we wanted.

12/07/2009 - Prudhoe Bay - Coldfoot - 384 km

Up early for a tour to the Arctic Ocean, it is not allowed to go by motorcycle to the site. For $ 40.00 we boarded a bus that took us there. We watched a video on the site and learned of its importance to the U.S.. Almost 40% of all oil used by Americans comes from Prudhoe Bay In the Arctic Ocean, I was the only one who had the courage to put your feet in the sea. It was amazing. In just a few seconds with the feet in the water, I had the distinct feeling that my feet would freeze and break as a piece of ice. Finally, we reached the end of the North American continent. Ushuaia to the South, Prudhoe Bay to the north, mission accomplished. Come back again facing the 200 km of mud the day before.

A pleasant surprise awaited us. As in the previous day had not rained and the sun did its job to dry a little road, all that gunk was gone, amazing. What we found was the track was still damp but firm. Thousands of holes, but okay. We take this situation and accelerate strong. We ran to 100, up to 130 km / h on the road the day before walking the 40 km / h was an act of extreme skill. Because of this, the day turned out to be great fun. We drove up to Coldfoot without any problem. Many stops for photos and footage, snack, etc.. It is a warning to those who want to go there: the track changes a lot. On a day may be bad and the next day everything is OK You can get feedback from someone who thought it was a hell as can also receive information that it was a great ride a motorcycle off-road. It was fun our return to Coldfoot. We also exhausted, of course, but very pleased we have not given up on the comments in Fairbanks.

In Coldfoot went straight supply the bikes and look for Mike, the guy who had offered their backyard as camping. It did not appear and off we went. We camp our tents on the edge of the creek, in a paradisiacal place. We shot your house, your belongings, their weapons, their trophies, his snow-mobile, finally, were with a native of Alaska for several hours and learned a lot. Mike had already left a lot of beer freezing waiting for us.

13/07/2009 - Coldfoot to Fairbanks - 418 Km

The road to Fairbanks was even better. It was the time to train our skills off-road, because we got to walk the 150 km / h on those dirt roads. Very fun and a wonderful visual. Many stops for photos and filming.

We stayed again at the Golden North Hotel. Main objective achieved, we were all satisfied. Follow on the way back, south.

14/07/2009 - Fairbanks the border of Alaska / Canada - 471 km

Smooth path, the way he did in coming. With the soul washed we had reached the Arctic Ocean, traveled slowly. Music in MP3 at full volume! We camped again in City Boarder Lounge.

15/07/2009 - Frontier Alaska to Skagway - 538 Km

We crossed the border of Alaska and Canada under a lot of rain. We stopped in Beaver Creek to wait for the storm to pass but to no avail. Continued raining heavily. No option, we follow anyway. In Haines Junction we parted. The Cilento went straight to Whitehorse and I know we and Roger Haines and Skagway. We agreed to meet in the next day in Liard River. Then we went to the Haines Highway towards Haines. A beautiful road surrounded by snowy mountains and ice on the banks of the track. Again we had to Customs Canada / USA, with ease, and arrived in Haines, a charming town on the margins of the Pacific. Circulate through the city, dinner in a pub and took the ferry that took us to Skagway that night. In the course of the boat we saw the snowy mountains, waterfalls of melting snow, three huge cruise ships. The arrival in Skagway was at 22:00 pm. We started around the city looking for hotel and ended up staying in the Westmark Inn, the high price of $ 115.00 in double room, because there was no other option. As it was past 22:00 pm, all the kitchens were already closed, the city seemed ghost. Again dinner was beer in the bars still open, especially the Red Onion Saloon.

16/07/2009 - Skagway the Liard River - 712 km

Incredibly the city had been transformed: it was full of tourists who left the huge ship anchored in port. We bought some souvenirs and enjoy some of the city, which is very nice and organized like a city of the old west, very well preserved. Here we find many totems, which are sculptures of tree trunks painted different colors, characteristic of the region.

We left Skagway at about noon in fine rain. We went back to the border to Canada and arrived at the Alaska Highway. We ran strong through the Alaska highway, with shots of 240 km, until we arrived, around 23:00 pm in Liard River, where we find the Cilento. The choice of Liard River as a meeting was due to the thermal waters of the place. So, after Armarmi our tents, we were bathing. It was midnight, clear skies, and we were immersed in water of about 40 °. Very relaxing, despite the enormous and numerous mosquitoes still chasing us, both in Alaska and the Yukon and here in northern British Columbia. Give him repellent. The warm water made us sleep easily, although we camped on top of a cement shelter available on site. A very interesting experience. Camped with us were some Americans. One of them was traveling with his 1969 BMW, which he bought 0 Km imagine, I was not born and the guy had that bike.

17/07/2009 - Liard River to Fort Nelson - 316 Km

We run only 316 km as there were many stretches of road works, which led us to lose several hours. We drove around several lakes. Moreover, Canada is the country with the largest number of lakes in the world. For all the paths we've made to Canadian roads, always had a lake beside the road, with magnificent vistas for many stops to contemplate. We arrived in Fort Nelson quite dusty. Stayed in the Blue Bell Inn for Can $ 118.00 for the triple room. In front of the motel was the best pub in town. For there we were, playing pool, dinner, a drink, chat. In the pool just betting money and Cilento, with much class, won all.

18/07/2009 - Fort Nelson to Grande Prairie - 581 km

We follow the Alaska highway to Dawson Creek. This town marks the beginning (for us the end) of the Alaska Highway. We take pictures on the board and soon after there was a separation of the second group. The Cilento, and had bought the bike in San Francisco, thought it best to leave it there to resell. So there he went alone to the west coast and Roger and I headed to the east. Now our group consisted of only two bikes, the two BMW R1200GS. From Dawson Creek we headed to Grande Prairie. Much rain and cold. We stopped at a gas station and the owner warned us that there was a strong hail storm ahead. We did well to stop for a while there. About an hour later decided to continue their journey, even with rain. We went to Beaverlodge, where there is a giant statue of a beaver and hit picture. We follow in the rain to Grade Prairie, a large city in the middle of a huge plain. We stayed at the Parkside Inn, at the entrance of the city, Can $ 77.00 per double room. It was raining hard. Soiled enough the hotel room with our boots. Our clothes were soaked.

We had dinner and had fun in the pub opposite the hotel, across the highway.

19/07/2009 - Grande Prairie to Edmonton - 448 km

Wide roads took us to Edmonton, capital city of the great state of Alberta, Canada. Edmonton is very pretty, but it was Sunday and every trade was closed. In the town square a good rock band playing to the public. We stayed at the Alberta Place Can $ 120.00 per double room.

20/07/2009 - Edmonton to Saskatoon / Dundurn - 562 Km

We left Edmonton in the direction of Saskatoon, the state capital of Saskatchewan, Canada. We run a long, wide roads with little movement. Upon arriving in Saskatoon and seeing that it is also a huge city, which means traffic complications and more expensive accommodation, we decided to leave town and then we stopped at Dundurn, the motel Kathy's Can $ 43.00 per double room . Right there in the motel restaurant and had rolled chat until dawn, the door of the room with the motorcycle stopped in front.

21/07/2009 - Harvey Dundurn the USA - 725 Km

We left Dundurn the rhythm of a halt every tank almost empty. So we did shots of 290 km until you reach the U.S. border, after Estevan. This border crossing was the only one that gave us problems. They requested we left the bike (so far, in all the borders, or had to leave the bike to do the procedures, with the exception of Abbotsford). They gave a general baggage, many questions asked in isolated rooms, as if to compare my answers with those of Roger. However, all with much kindness and warmth. We were released and we sailed again on American soil. The weather was good, great roads, so we decided to depart as far as possible, because our original plan was to spend the night in Estevan, even in Canada. We were going up there to Harvey, the state of North Dakota. A small city but with good accommodation, which was in the Motel RR U.S. $ 55.00 in a double room. We were in the pub next to the motel and play pool, listen to good music played by the jukebox while the natives enjoy a quiet night of bingo. A surreal situation but very interesting. One of the women of the place (Harvey should not have more than 1000 inhabitants) go over to the jukebox (jukebox), $ 2.00 place and schedule your 5 songs - only heavy metal. The animation takes over and the pool is much nicer.

22/07/2009 - Harvey Sioux Falls - 693 Km

Great lines and agricultural fields dominate the endless landscape. We drove quickly through the highways 52 and 29, passing through Fargo. Stops only with the tank at the end and at gas stations with structure for a drink and maybe eat. Beautiful landscapes that can be dressed even within the helmet. Music in the MP3 and go ahead. We arrived in Siuox Falls, the state of South Dakota, around 19:00 pm.

We arrived in Siuox Falls and stayed at the Sioux Falls Inn, just outside the city, for U.S. $ 60.00 in a double room.

23/07/2009 - Sioux Falls to Kansas City - 640 km

To get to Kansas City, capital of the state of Kansas, passed by the state of Iowa, Nebraska and Missouri, at least for a few kilometers. Each state has its own laws, so it's important to stay up on the signs. Everything can change from one state to another. We stopped in Omaha, the state of Nebraska, to change the rear tire on the BMW dealership in that city. The Continental TKC80, with 7300 Km, gave goodbye. Until I went too far, when it comes to off-road tires. We put Michelin Anakee for $ 200.00 (funded by the company that rented the bikes). In Kansas City, a huge city, modern and beautiful buildings, stayed at the Econolodge, $ 90.00 for a double room. At night, we attended a party open to the public where a country band playing at full steam. Cleaning of American cities draws attention. Everything is very organized. You do not see dirt on the street, anywhere.

24/07/2009 - Kansas City to Nashville - 896 Km

This entry was difficult. Despite the great roads, maintenance works in some places formed long queues. A blazing sun toasted our heads inside the helmet. A lot of water to hydrate and enough patience. Besides the high mileage scheduled for the day, even those jams. But okay, only joy, as we were going to Nashville, Tennessee, the "Music City" of the United States (this is how it sells itself). We went through St. Louis and headed toward Highway 24. In one of the supplies lost credit card Roger. We only find about 200 miles away, in a new stop. Phone calls to the carrier card to address the problem. It was night, our first pilot in the dark throughout the journey, but we really wanted to get in Nashville. Following journey, suddenly a threat deer onto the road. We were 140 km / h, the shock was too great. From then on drive more cautiously and watching the side of the road. Nashville we saw in the distance. Huge city, tall buildings where the tower stands at AT & T. We were in the 4-lane highway with multiple entrances to the city and in the dark. When we decided to go into one, we are very lucky, because it threw us right into the center of the city, where everything happens. We stopped at Broadway and ask for information about hotels. Once we stayed at the Best Western Convention Center, just 3 blocks away from Broadway, to U.S. $ 112.00 in double room. It was already 23:00 pm that Friday. Unload the luggage in the room, took a shower and headed to the bars of the city, which are numerous, most with live music of all kinds.

Nashville is a great party. Hundreds of people on the streets, enjoying music, from bar to bar. We got on the bandwagon and listen to good bands all night.

25/07/2009 - Nashville - 0 Km

This would be the second day, throughout the journey, not rodaríamos with the bike. We chose to stay in Nashville and enjoy the atmosphere of the city. At noon many bars already have good live bands, and the party continues until dawn. We from bar to bar during that Saturday.

26/07/2009 - Nashville to Atlanta - 455 Km

We left early and Nashville, where the great road, follow to the city of Lynchburg, Tennessee, which is home to one distillery of the famous Jack Daniels whiskey. We did a tour of the site and learned more about the history of Mr. Jack and the manufacture of the drink.

With respect to U.S. and Canadian roads, it is worth commenting: nearly 16,000 km of which ran at least 13,000 in asphalt was perfect. I do not remember having found holes. Remember that we do not pay any toll on the entire trip.

Follow the highway to Atlanta 75. The arrival in Atlanta is in a tangle of roads with up to 5 runs. Many cards, multiple outputs, etc.. The GPS has a strength and thus we leave the highway in the right spot and then find a hotel, the Quality Inn in downtown Atlanta, for $ 120.00 in double room. The dinner was in a cafeteria of Hooters, that famous chain of fast food kitchen where the girls meet in the clothing requirements. Nevertheless, the place is frequented by families. We found the Atlanta center somewhat dangerous, so we are not circulating around. We are close to the restaurant and went to sleep.

27/07/2009 - Atlanta to Daytona Beach - 752 Km

Originally we were going to sleep in Savannah, but the trip was so good, so pra played for Jacksonville and we know Daytona Beach, home to one of the largest gatherings of motorcycle riders in the world. It is located on the Atlantic Ocean, so it marked our total cross North America. Daytona Beach is a city of low buildings and everything happens on the beach. There is also the famous racing track which hosts major competitions of speed. We stayed at the Mayan Inn, to $ 99.00 in a double room.

28/07/2009 - Daytona Beach to Miami - 432 Km

We follow the highway 95 to Miami. We reached the end of the trip. The arrival in Miami was much celebrated by me and Roger. Once we entered the great city, very beautiful and with a high mood. We went straight to Miami Beach where he soon recognized several movie sets. We stayed at Hotel Eva, on Collins Ave, for U.S. $ 95.00 a double room.

29, 30 and 31/07/2009 - Miami - 0 Km

We spent three days enjoying the city, making several trips and taking a swim. Even a ride on Thriller, a boat that they say the fastest boat ride (no more than 80 km / h), we did. With this boat we passed many beautiful places in Miami and we saw the expensive homes of many famous people. We also use to buy some electronic equipment and motorcycle, as prices are extraordinary.

On 31/07/2009, at 10:00 pm Mr. Jack Raynolds stopped his truck in front of the Hotel Eva, and with great sadness among us, was shipping the bikes. We goodbye to our companions and there feel that the trip was really over. That same day we took the plane back to Brazil.